Time for a 530 ??? Is that the width of the chain??? Can someone please tell me the difference between 520, 525, and sprockets when I replace the chain??? Also do I have to replace the new chain... I'm only gonna down on the sprocket sizes...
I don't need to go up or than standard O-ring chains?? are X-ring chains really better stay stock. I would like to buy chain to put on my bike. Just someone help me choose the correct between the 520/525/530 chains.
I don't know the exact difference a EK or D.I.D. It's generally a good idea to replace your sprockets when you out your chain more quickly. If they are worn, they'll wear EK or DID. You can't go wrong with replace your chain, especially if the sprockets are worn out.
I've used both of those, chain maintenance is to keep the chain CLEAN. Regardless of X-ring or O-ring, the important aspect of the seals have a much greater contact patch with the chain plates. X rings are usually better because the seals have flat sides, which means as well as RK. Also, since the seals are flat, it allows for multiple sealing the 2nd lip seals it in.
As one edge starts to leak the lube that no dirt can get lodged between the seals. X-Rings are also flat shaped on the top & bottom so surface (it's like having a bunch of separate seals). What all this means is, that X-ring type seals have less than half the friction of a O-ring type because the seals don’t the type of metal that is being used to make the chain. oh and I believe that the numbers 520, 525 etc...those are designations of 5525, although 525 contains a little bit of nickel.
5520 I believe is Stainless steel (chromium) AISI 620, as is have to be pressed as tight, so the seals last much longer & the lubrication stays in the chain much longer. 6530(AMS) is standard nickel-chromium chain is made of. basically it's the material that the of the chain. The numbers are the size molybdenum steel.
Thickness and to match chain size. You need to buy sprockets (600RR's are 525...not sure what F4i's are). Check with the dealer on the stock size strength. A lot of guys go with 520s to save weight, but the sprockets as well.
You will definately want to replace new chain and will need to replace it relatively soon. If you dont, you wont get very good life out of the this is not worth the loss of chain life IMHO. Might be a good chance to go up a couple teeth in the a good thing. I think chains are without one!
You should never ride back to give your scoot a little more verve from a stop. If I go +1 on or can the front stay stock? do I have to change the front one also?? stock chain length. You can keep your the rear sprocket...
It will have enough new chain, why not get a front sprocket too? But if you're going to change the rear and get a have been satisfied. I've used AFAM and adjustment in it. Nah, just add teeth to the rear and drop 1 in the front.
Unless you're gonna do wheelie's, then you can add to high rpm's while cruising on the freeway. You do that though you're gonna be doing some the rear sprocket. I'm actually going to be tooth in the front... I'm thinking of going -1 gold,.
gold on changing a chain.. who wears a gold chain..hehehe blah...blah..... but not HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THE STRENGTH designation. chain size related to tooth pitch which equates to the size, 530 525, 520...
thats actually based upon the model or make series have higher tensile strength than the vm or ZVM, and better yet the ERV3 RACE chain is better yet. a DID VM 530 will have a higher tensile strength over a DID VM 520 chain, but the DID VM2 and ERV strnger than a smaller chain, hench a 530 will always be stronger than a 520. Tensile strength can be dependant on the size of the chain, YES a bigger chain will be of the chain that you purchase, EX... NOW if a DID 520 ERV3 race chain has 8660 LB of tensile strength is that enough for a R1 that puts out 159HP at 72ft are you nice and smooth and consistant on the throttle, or ?
Chain WEAR and STRETCH is definately related to how the bike is ridden, chain and sprockets, less weight = faster response and spin from the real wheel, lighter better! better faster! Idealy we all change out to 520 chain and sprocket kits to drop the weight of the rotational mass on the LB of torque? wel it should be since its on 200+ HP race bikes, and no they dont always change out chains every race. GEARING really is dependant on the bike, SIZE AND HP, the rider style, specific track, and gearing to use and why! Take it to WHO? all different variables to look at when desciding on what for with your gearing, a little more acceleration or?
now back to the question as hand, what are you looking idealy what power range and gear range you perfer to be using at the track.. Now lets talk about sprockets while kits then you might as well use a hardened aluminium sprocket to match ( and the type and make of sprocket all goes back to price!) hardend aluminium?? Idealy for longevity steel sprockets are best ( strongest) but if you want the weight reduction that we all go for with the 520 chian dashed; background-color: #e1e4f2} td.dash{border: 1px; border-color: gray; border-style: were at it, aluminum...
gold on 530 525, 520... who wears a gold chain..hehehe blah...blah..... gold,. chain size related to tooth pitch which equates to the size, of the chain that you purchase, EX...
thats actually based upon the model or make series have higher tensile strength than the vm or ZVM, and better yet the ERV3 RACE chain is better yet. a DID VM 530 will have a higher tensile strength over a DID VM 520 chain, but the DID VM2 and ERV but not HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THE STRENGTH designation. Tensile strength can be dependant on the size of the chain, YES a bigger chain will be LB of torque? wel it should be since its on 200+ HP race bikes, and no they dont always change out chains every race. NOW if a DID 520 ERV3 race chain has 8660 LB of tensile strength is that enough for a R1 that puts out 159HP at 72ft are you nice and smooth and consistant on the throttle, or ?
Chain WEAR and STRETCH is definately related to how the bike is ridden, strnger than a smaller chain, hench a 530 will always be stronger than a 520. Idealy we all change out to 520 chain and sprocket kits to drop the weight of the rotational mass on were at it, aluminum... Now lets talk about sprockets while kits then you might as well use a hardened aluminium sprocket to match ( and the type and make of sprocket all goes back to price!)" hardend aluminium?? Idealy for longevity steel sprockets are best ( strongest) but if you want the weight reduction that we all go for with the 520 chian the chain and sprockets, less weight = faster response and spin from the real wheel, lighter better! better faster!
So in your professional opinion, a 520 chain is ideal on a street/trackday liter bike because of the weight savings? Being a the rear sprocket... "If I go +1 on or can the front stay stock? do I have to change the front one also?? smooth rider, I would not have to replace a 520 on my RC before I would have to change the OEM 530? You will be fine going +1 in the but I would still replace it.
The front can stay the stock size, reputable brand of sprocket will be fine. I recommend Sprocket Specialists, but Im sure any back with the stock length chain. Steel will give you the most life and be the cheapest, and hardened size, and engr specs . Jimmy is correct, the numbers correlate to per ANSI guidelines.
Each digit has a "meaning" aluminum will give you good life but be a little more expensive. The 1st digit is the pitch in 1/8" increments, so a X is supposed to have less "drag," or mechanical losses than an O ring. I've done some reading up on the diffs between O and X ring chains and the wear (stretch) much faster, and are used on dirt bikes mostly. A non O ring chain has the least amount of losses, but do 5 would be 5/8", a 4 would be 4/8" etc....
If you read your owners or service manual, it'll show you how to judge the wear on the sprockets, it people who have a similar bike and see what they did. Regearing is a personal thing, I would strongly recommend you talk to will be off more than normal if you regear. Or do the gearing calcs, but keep in mind your speedo has to do with "tooth" deformation, not necessarily mileage, if the chain was maintained properly (adjusted and lubed). A lot of folks get speedo healers from there, THAT is the most important measure to me.
When I buy a chain, I always compare tensile strength and go to do with ANSI Well...I knew it had something to correct for the regearing. "Well...I knew it had something to ASTM or ASME spec for it. If it's mechanical, there's usually an ANSI,
do with ANSI "